Kushiyaki/Sumiyaki/Yakitori

Kushiwakamaru

at Naka-Meguro - gaijin-friendly yakitori joint with English menus. Raved about here and in Vaou

Phone: 03 3715 9292

Directions: Exit Naka Meguro station, cross the road directly in front of you and turn left. Take the second right and the first left. Kushiwakamaru is halfway up the block on your left.

Kushiya Monogatari
A chain offering yakitori and other grilled stuff. Also has tabehodai (all-you-can-eat) menu for ¥2500. Get the coupon for ¥500 off.



Fuku
Another well-lauded yakitori joint, at Yoyogi-Uehara. Using very fresh free-range chicken and time-honored charcoal grilling techniques. Prices very reasonable (150-250 yen per grilled item). English menu very detailed too!

Gonpachi
Soba with kushiyaki (skewered grill selection) in an unusual old Japanese warehouse setting. Apparently Clinton dined at the Nishi Azabu place with Koizumi. Branches also at Odaiba, Shibuya, Ginza and Tenjin. Ah just checked, they no longer serve lunch at all outlets!

Frommer says: It offers a wide variety of dishes, including yakitori (like skewered albacore with Gorgonzola tartar sauce), fish (like miso-glazed black cod), sushi (on the third floor), noodles, and more. From the outside, you'd expect this place to be much more exclusive than it is -- and you probably will be excluded if you fail to make reservations for dinner.

Fried Chicken Wings! And other chicken dishes...

Yamachan
An izakaya specialising in tebasaki - Nagoya-style peppery spicy chicken wings! Who can resist!

Two outlets at Seibu station Shinjuku, right where the Prince hotel is.
Just ¥399. Takeout available.



Toriyoshi

Yakitori, fried chicken (also famous for its chicken wings), and other varieties of chicken, along with some interesting regional specialities of the Nagoya area. A particularly special Tofu called "Daiginjo Kinu-jikomi Tofu" is a beautiful white. Black sesame and milk tofu are other innovations. Shinjuku 3-13-5, B1F. Open 5pm-mid. (LO 11), Fr, Sat-4am. Open every day. Tel: 3353-3357. Oh gosh, actually they're everywhere - 3 outlets in Shinjuku itself, plus Harajuku, Shibuya, Aoyama, Ikebukuro, Roppongi, Kichijoji (main), etc. Elaborate course sets, lunch sets, a la carte or all you can eat for ¥1500.

Soba / Udon

Tokyo Mentsu-dan
(corner of the alley leading to the Nishi Shinjuku Hotel). Authentic sanuki-style udon noodle specialists (I became an instant convert, previously hating udon!). Lots of tasty broths to choose from, hot or cold, wet or dry. Delicious tempura toppings and side orders complete your meal. Check out their menu

Owariya, Asakusa 尾張屋- giant prawn tempura!!
Tel: 03-3845-4500Located at: 1-7-1, Asakusa, Taito-ku,Tokyo
Five minutes walk from Asakusa Station, Ginza Subway Line11:30-20:00
This shitamachi slurpery has been dishing up soba since 1860. Famed for its shrimp tempura soba, which comes decorated with two oversized crustaceans, this old Edo gem is still going strong. Noted novelist Kafu Nagai ("American Stories") often used to stop by for a bowl, so keep an eye out for local color as you wolf down your noodles.Open 11:30am-8:30pm, closed Fri.
Tempura Soba: ¥1300
English map here from Asakusa Umai!
You can read one traveler's account here

Tonkatsu

Maisen, (03) 3470-00714-8-5 Jingu-mae, Shibuya-ku
Any argument over which restaurant in Tokyo serves the best tonkatsu—Japan’s beloved plate of deep-fried pork cutlet, rice and cabbage—should end with Maisen. The restaurant has made an obsession of perfecting a dish that is usually cooked quickly as standard daily grub. The secret to Maisen’s success is that cutlets can be doused in one of three tangy sauces brewed on the premises. Our favourite is a fruity concoction served with the house special, a delicious cutlet made from kurobuta, a black hog from Kagoshima. JH prefers the ‘rosu’ cut, which is fattier - but the ‘hire’ or fillet cut is also good. This large, crowded restaurant is tucked away in a converted old bath-house off the main Omotesando drag. Be prepared to wait at least 20 minutes for a table and expect to sit on the floor. If you hit the weekend rush and the queue seems too daunting, buy one of the superb tonkatsu sandwiches from the Maisen stand outside the restaurant. Oh and Maisen has a booth at Shinjuku's Takashimaya depachika.

http://members.aol.com/maisenpr/
http://www.metropolis.co.jp/tokyorestaurantsarchive249/245/contents.html
http://eatbma.blogspot.com/2006/07/maisen-tonkatsu-harajuku.html

Tonki

1-1 Shimo-Meguro, Meguro-ku
This is the other famous tonkatsu institution in Tokyo. They do only one thing and do it well. You'll probably have to wait for a seat at the counter, but it's worth it. Choose between hirekatsu (a filet cut of lean pork) or the rosukatsu (a loin cut, with some fat on it). Kushi-katsu (skewered pork with onions) is also available. Teishoku, the set meal, features soup, rice, cabbage, pickled vegetable, and tea. The man will scribble your order on a piece of paper and put it with all the other scraps of paper, miraculously keeping track of not only which order belongs to whom but also which customers have been waiting for seats the longest. The open kitchen behind the counter takes up most of the space in the restaurant, and as you eat you can watch the half-dozen or so cooks scrambling to turn out orders -- never a dull moment, and in my opinion one of the highlights of dining here. You can get free refills of tea, rice, and cabbage.

Open 4:00pm- 10:45pm, closed Tues (another site says third Monday of each month).

Prices -inexpensive, from ¥1600 per person
Reservations-none, waiting in the seats lined up on the wall is part of the experience
Credit cards-none

http://www.tokyogoodeats.com/complete_list/Ebisu_Meguro_Naka-Meguro/Tonki/body_tonki.html

japan.fjordaan.net/food.html

http://members.aol.com/tokyojapan/tonki.html

Shabu Shabu

Mo~Mo~ Paradise:
Various locations:
1. Udagawacho 31-2, Shibuya Beam 6F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5-10:30pm daily. Tel: 3461-2941.
2. Walk towards Shinjuku East, and towards Isetan. Kabuki-cho behind Kent Hotel

All-you-can-eat shabu-shabu and sukiyaki specials for ¥1500 (90-minute limit), Y1000 at lunchtime. At Mo Mo Paradise, guests are treated to choice cuts of Black Angus beef imported from the United States in an upscale atmosphere that features stylized paintings of bulls. Before eating shabu shabu, turn on the hot plate in the center of the table and boil the water in a steel bowl. Using your chopsticks, quickly swish the meat in the water (some folks believe that it tastes better if you sing 'shabu shabu' as you do this) until it's cooked. Then dip the meat in a choice of two sauces, either gomadare, a slightly sweet sesame sauce, or ponzu, a soy and vinegar combination. Only after eating the meat should you then cook your tofu, carrot, hakusai cabbage, maitake mushrooms, and negi green onions. Sukiyaki, the slightly tougher and sweeter meat dish eaten with raw egg, is also a house specialty.

All-You-Can-Eat / Tabe-Hodai 食べ放題

This seems to be a big thing in Tokyo. Lunch buffets abound, some even for less than ¥1000! Of course, those would more likely be quantity over quality of food. In Japan, buffets are also known as "baikingu" (Viking, or their way of saying smorgasbord, I guess).

http://ikuko.ciao.jp/page3.htm (This is a great site listing someone's reviews of many buffets, listed by area, cuisine type and budget. You can see it's a tremendous labour of love from its extensiveness. Sorry, it's in Japanese but you can make out some stuff or run it via a translator)
http://smt.blogs.com/mari_diary/2005/03/lets_eat_as_muc.html
http://www.bento.com/r-buff.html
http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~qt2h-nkjm/tabeho/ikebukur.htm (in Japanese, but run it through a translator for a general clue)
Here's the Shinjuku page, already translated (well, looks like translation only goes halfway)

Carne Station (Hanamasa) - all you can eat BBQ+sushi+desserts+drinks: lunch ¥1,000 yen, dinner ¥3,000 yen. Ginza Gnavi page here. There's a 90-minute time limit but they don't really enforce it. At Ginza and Asakusa (even cheaper!). Beers on tap, wine, sake. Grill at your own table. Appetizers and even fruit (we know how expensive these are in Tokyo!). Downstairs in Ginza 9 Building 8-5 Ginza. Closest station is JR Yurakucho or the Ginza subway on Ginza line (transfer at Shimbashi). Near the Hakuhinkan Toy store, one of Tokyo's largest and best toy stores.

Ocean Dining
Has great view of rainbow bridge and Mediterranean eats. Hotel is just at Daiba Station on the Yurikamome line.
Hotel Nikko Tokyo (Odaiba) 3rd floor
Lunch buffet ¥3360 (weekdays)
03-5500-5642
http://www.hnt.co.jp/eng/rest/index.html
http://redglowh.blogspot.com/2007/07/ocean-dining.html

Hina Sushi
(B1, Shinjuku I-land Tower, 6-5-1 West Shinjuku):
About 40 types of sushi to choose from in this buffet dinner for the price of ¥5000 (S$63). It's a lot of money. Check out their menu here...

Tamazushi / Tamasushi
(2min walk from Shinjuku Stn, South Exit, branches also at Shibuya etc). A cheaper alternative, with group/gender pricing.
In general females ¥3150 (S$40); males ¥4200 (S$54). Doubtful of coming here since hubby won't eat much of the raw stuff.

Italian

Now, we aren't going to eat Nihon-ryori (Japanese cuisine) every day in Japan (although I really could!!). The Japanese do a great take on other cuisines too, notably Italian, their favourite genre after their own kind.

La Bettola da Ochiai - where you'll need reservations at least 2 months in advance. Lunch hopefuls form lines hours before opening time. Great food that's great value for money - your bill will rarely exceed ¥5,000 per person. Read the rave reviews:
http://metropolis.co.jp/tokyo/585/restaurants.asp
http://www.potatomato.com/seat/archives/000592.html


Capricciosa - This casual trattoria-style Italian restaurant chain is renowned for its hearty portions and low prices, as well as regular portions. All dishes can be shared between parties of two or more. Tomatoes are imported from Italy daily to guarantee the freshest sauces. Washington Hotel Branch: B1 Shinjuku Washington Hotel, 3-2-9 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-3343-3882. Open 11:30am-10pm (L.O.). Island Tower Branch: B1 Shinjuku Island Tower, 6-5-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-3346-3746. Open 11:30am-10pm (L.O.). Higashi-Guchi Branch: B1 Musashino-kan Bldg, 3-27-10 Shinjuku-ku (in the basement of Zara). Tel: 03-3341-6066. Open noon-10:30pm

French

Nagase
French casual neighborhood bistro offering great food at very reasonable prices. On the opposite side of Meiji Dori from Takeshita Dori, on a side street nicknamed Harajuku Dori; it's on the left side of the street, up on the 2nd floor, Harajuku & Aoyama. Set lunches ¥1,000-¥2,500, dinners ¥2,500-¥3,000. Reservations required weekends. 03/3423-1925

American, Japanese-Fusion & Others

Bubba Gump Shrimp!
Has two locations in Tokyo!
Korakuen (near Ochanomizu and Akihabara) and Toyosu (way east of Shinjuku, almost near Odaiba). Shrimp, seafood and ribs!

Every Wednesday is ladies day, with half-price desserts for all ladies, and beer is half-price every Monday and Tuesday (excluding holidays). Perfect for seafood lovers who appreciate freshness, and for others there is a variety of meat, hamburgers, salads and desserts to chose from as well.

Kakaiya
This is an interesting East-meets-West fusion seafood that's done well. Seafood fresh from ports of Nishi-Izu with wide selection of sake and shochu. Notable dishes include fresh fish carpaccio, crabmeat springrolls, tuna spareribs, DIY maki. They also have steak! Website has map and menus in English too.
http://metropolis.co.jp/tokyorestaurants/369/contents.html
http://search.japantimes.co.jp/cgi-bin/fg20060407rs.html
23-7 Maruyama-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo (渋谷区円山町23-7)
Tel: 03-3770-0878

Indian

POST TRIP UPDATE: Forget this joint. Prices have gone up to 1500 yen and the food is not great. Very small selection. We had a better experience the previous trip at a Taj Mahal nearby.

Raj Mahal
Seems this place serves up pretty good Indian fare. All-you-can-eat from 11:30am until 3 pm every day for 1100 yen. Vegetable, spicy dal, chicken or mutton curry, tender Tandoori chicken, pakora, fresh and warm tasty naan, two kinds of rice, salad and dessert for ¥1,100 (tax included). Drinks (lassi, soft drinks, etc.) are only ¥100. Outlets in Roppongi., Shibuya, Shinjuku and Ginza areas.

Raj mahal is in the peace plaza building 5F. EXIT the JR station at the east-south exit. Cross the street and turn left, so you are walking north. Turn right at benneton and keep walking. The Raj Mahal is on the right side of the street., maybe 2 minutes away. It is next to wendy's, across from makudonarudo.

Peace Bldg., 5F, 3-34-11, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo, 160-0022 Tel: 03-5379-2525/2580

Cheap & Tasty Eats in Tokyo

Yes, foodwise, you can get by in Tokyo for very little. Lots of eateries offer filling meals for ¥500-¥1000 (S$6-12). Fresh and tasty enough for the price.
http://www.metropolis.co.jp/tokyofeaturestoriesarchive249/237/tokyofeaturestoriesinc.htm
http://www.tokyoessentials.com/eats.html
http://smt.blogs.com/mari_diary/2005/09/how_to_eat_in_a.html
http://www.chowhound.com/topics/379801
http://35degrees.com/article/103/cheap-eats-in-tokyo

I can vouch for good old Tenya, which I remember kept me well-fueled on a cold winter's day. There's one outlet close to Nishi Shinjuku Hotel, on the main road! Man, I would love a bowl right now!

Mos Burger is also worth a try. The last time I had it, it was so much better than in Singapore.

Yoshinoya is everywhere too, but the taste is well, so-so. Maybe depends on the outlet.

Matsuya is the other ubiquitous chain. They have a vending machine that dispenses tickets for the meals you choose. Curry, donburi, set meals, hamburgers, even breakfast sets. Wow, the website menu even lists the calories!

Bakeries, Cakes & Patisseries

Viron
Across the street from the Bunkamura in Shibuya (walk in the direction of 109 outside the station), Viron has authentic French sandwiches of pork rillettes, paté de campagne, and ham and Gruyere. The flour, brought in from France, is key to their famous Retrodor baguettes. If you are going to explore one new bakery, this should be it. Pick up one of their trademark batons, some fresh brioche or one of the other specialty loaves and you won’t be disappointed. Even better, try a crusty sandwich filled with sharp cheese and thick sliced ham or a slice of stellar quiche. A new addition is the savory and sweet brioche pastries that come with constantly changing fillings. And when it comes to dessert, you’ll be spoiled for choice with more tarts than a Montmartre bordello. Take plenty of napkins if you choose the gooey eclairs or flaky mille-feuille. Or if rain washes out your picnic, visit their upstairs restaurant, which serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. 33-8 Udagawa-cho, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5458-1770. Open daily 9am-7pm. Nearest stn: Shibuya. Viron has opened its second shop at the new Tokyo building in the Tokia complex, conveniently located just across from Tokyo station`s Marunouchi main exit.

A Tes Souhaits
Stunningly beautiful and delicious French-style cakes, pastries and desserts. In East Kichijoji...which would be fabulous after a visit to the Studio Ghibli Museum nearby!

Casa Kichijoji 2, 3-8-8, Kichijoji-higashicho, Musashino- shi

And watch the world go by... at Wired Cafe

Miscellaneous

Some interesting things to explore food-wise...

DEPACHIKA
Enormous food halls in basements (chika, meaning underground) of department stores (depato), especially in Shibuya, Shinjuku and Ikebukuro. LOTS of things to sample and you can get quite full on just the freebies.
http://japanwelcomesyou.com/cssweb/display.cfm?sid=1251
http://metropolis.co.jp/tokyo/648/localflavors.asp
http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/tokyos-food-hall-craze
http://www.budgettravelonline.com/bt-dyn/content/article/2006/02/02/AR2006020201099_pf.html
NYT article on depachika

EKI-BEN (eki = train station, ben = bento boxes)
Tasty value from ¥500 onwards. Some may cost more than ¥2,000 and come packaged so beautifully like a gift box - is that silk wrapping I see? And Look at the variety on this page!! What can I say - I am a sucker for bento! Popular regular bento shops include Hoka Hoka Bento and Origin Bento!

KONBINI (Convenience stores)
Everywhere you turn, there is a 24-hr konbini! They carry a wide variety of ready-to-eat takeaway food. Most of them probably suck but one thing that's not too bad - onigiri!! Ohh, how I used to survive on those for breakfast! Yeah, and the larger konbinis have a bazillion snacks/drinks you have never seen before (featuring some of the infamous Japlish names). Tip: When the staff ask you "atatamete?", they are asking if you want your food heated up/microwaved.

FOOD THEME PARKS
Still wondering whether it's worthwhile to check one out...
http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3035.html

FOOD LINKS
Tokyo Gourmet Navigator (in Japanese)
http://www.gnavi.co.jp/en/kanto/
English version here
http://www.gnavi.co.jp/en/

Kyoto Food

Now I'm a total newbie to Kyoto. The city's grid design and smaller size should make it easier to navigate than Tokyo but I'm still unfamiliar with Kyoto's neighbourhoods and transportation system. I think we will take our chances with random eats here more than in Tokyo because it would be too much trouble to hunt down some of these places (good if we see them, if not, doesn't matter). Anyway, there are lots of eateries in and around Kyoto Station itself.

Kyoto is famous for its kaiseki (multi-course haute cuisine) - extremely high quality food presented like art, with prices to match. Each course is carefully designed to complement and balance the others in the banquet. Kyoto's also known for temple food, vegetarian food, tofu and wheat gluten derivatives. Okonomiyaki, yakiniku and ramen are also popular.

Also must try the Mitarashi dango rice dumplings, grilled on bamboo skewers and dipped in soy sauce, and sold at Shimogamo Shrine.

Food links:
http://www.kyotoguide.com/ver2/guide/dining-.htm
http://ss.gnavi.co.jp/fl/search/?id=enU&area=AREAL3404
http://www.vcarious.com/Travel-Guide/Japan/Kyoto/FoodandDrink.html

I am going to list the eateries by area, so we can refer to them when we are planning the itinerary.

East/North Area - Higashiyama, Gion, Pontocho, Kyoto U surrounds

Kikunoi
Superchef Yoshihiro Murata's fabulous kaiseki dinners at Kikunoi in Kyoto (459 Shimo Kawaramachi, Yasaki Torii Mae, Higashiyama-ku; 81-75/561-0015; dinner for two $250), south of Maruyama Parks. Kaiseki (PM5:00～PM8:00) from ¥15,000 - ¥25,000 (Taxes and service charge not included). Lunchtime bento ¥4,000 and kaiseki ¥8,000 available from noon to 2pm.
See Time magazine article on chef and restaurant.
http://www.digistyle-kyoto.com/restaurant/restaurant_e/25_e.htm

Hanbei Fu (up to ¥2,500 - up to ¥9,000)
Supposedly famous for its great value bargain lunches. This restaurant near the Gojo Bridge specialises in fu (wheat gluten) cooking - a branch of vegetarian cooking unique to Kyoto - and has done so for over 300 years. Fu (wheat gluten) and yuba (soy milk skimmings) historically have been important sources of protein in the Japanese diet, which was largely vegetarian until the 20th century. This 18th-century establishment in a 19th-century house is an excellent place to sample the versatility of both ingredients, which can be grilled, baked, used in tempura, or warmed in soup. How delicious could soy and gluten be? Hmm, somehow don't think hubby will take to this. Still, it's highly recommended in this listing and this forum (scroll to bottom). Oh Discovery lists it here!
Address: Minimazume, Gojo Ohashi Higashi, Higashiyama-ku
Phone: (075) 525 0008 Open: 9am-7pm. Closed Sun. Reservations required!

Ponto-cho 先斗町 has many restaurants in its narrow alleys. Ponto Izakaya is one good place. Succulent sashimi, sizzling beef balls, vegetable dishes, and tofu dishes. Wash it down with beer, sake and other Japanese drinks. A few tables next to windows overlooking the river.



Kappa sushi at Ponto-cho is also popular and reasonably priced (although some claim pricey!).

There are still rumours that some izakayas and restaurants will not serve gaijins, or anyone not recommended by a regular. Gnavi English listing of Ponto-cho eats ought to be safe though.


The closest bus stop to Pontocho is Shijo Kawaramachi, which is served by ten bus lines, including lines 17 and 205 from Kyoto Station. The closest train stations are Kawaramachi Station on the Hankyu Line and Shijo Station on the Keihan Line.

Tenchu
Great tempura near Kyoto University. Affordable lunch sets from ¥1300. Take note: it's a small restaurant with only eight seats! Open from noon to 9pm; closed Mondays and third Tuesdays. English directions here.

Downtown/Central - Kawaramachi (河原), Karasuma (烏丸)

Karasuma-Oike 烏丸御池 area: Tenyu (tempura), La Bouchon (budget French), Red Rubber Ball Cafe.
Karasuma-Kawaramachi: Kinmata (kaiseki), Yaoya no Nikai (vegetarian), Ippudou ramen is here too.

Nishiki Market: This narrow, mostly covered pedestrian shopping street is parallel to and one block north of Shijo-dori, the main street in the center of town, and runs for blocks and blocks. Open from early morning until late afternoon, it's a great place to browse and graze among the fishmongers, fruit and vegetable grocers, pickle purveyors, and endless stalls of prepared food, from grilled eel to pounded-rice cakes. Eat on the run or take it back to your hotel with you—or just fill up on the free samples. Kyoto Uni introduces some of the more interesting shops.

Musashi Sushi
One of Kyoto's foremost kaiten sushi shops. Cheap and cheerful (they even round down the bill to lower ten yen). Just don't expect superior quality but it will be fun enough. Two locations - Kyoto Station basement (yay!) and on the north-west corner of Sanjo Kawaramachi, more on the Kawaramachi side than Sanjo.


Chifaja Yakiniku

All you can eat in 90 mins for ¥2,200! BBQ meats, vegetables, etc in a casual dining environment. Several outlets. Main restaurant here. Near Kawaramachi. Just below the Kyoto City Hall. 4 min walk from subway Tozai Line Kyoto Shiyakusho-mae station No.3 Exit

Gyuzen
at Gion and Karasuma.
Fantastic all you can eat (for 2hrs) shabu-shabu and sukiyaki sets from ¥1,980!
But open only for dinner from 5-11pm.

Other yakiniku chains include Gyukaku Tendan, Shabuzen and Fufutei (one at Shijo-Karasuma, same row as Daimaru). Another joint with tabehodai BBQ, shabu shabu and sukiyaki is Aji Building Kashin.

Mr Young Men
Okonomiyaki FTW! Wikitravel says, "a pleasantly grubby okonomiyaki restaurant downtown, at the corner of Shijo and the covered shopping street of Teramachi. Basic English menus are available. A basic dish of Osaka-style okonomiyaki will run about ¥800, although a few variations (including a bizarre cheese and potato version) are available for about the same price."

Café Independants - bohemian epicentre of Kyoto. Lunches cheap from ¥500-800! Mostly western-style fare - sandwiches.
Open 11:45am-midnight daily.
Tel: 075-255-4312
Kyoto City Hall
Gokomachi Sanjo, 1928 Bldg B1F