East/North Area - Higashiyama, Gion, Pontocho, Kyoto U surrounds

Kikunoi
Superchef Yoshihiro Murata's fabulous kaiseki dinners at Kikunoi in Kyoto (459 Shimo Kawaramachi, Yasaki Torii Mae, Higashiyama-ku; 81-75/561-0015; dinner for two $250), south of Maruyama Parks. Kaiseki (PM5:00～PM8:00) from ¥15,000 - ¥25,000 (Taxes and service charge not included). Lunchtime bento ¥4,000 and kaiseki ¥8,000 available from noon to 2pm.
See Time magazine article on chef and restaurant.
http://www.digistyle-kyoto.com/restaurant/restaurant_e/25_e.htm

Hanbei Fu (up to ¥2,500 - up to ¥9,000)
Supposedly famous for its great value bargain lunches. This restaurant near the Gojo Bridge specialises in fu (wheat gluten) cooking - a branch of vegetarian cooking unique to Kyoto - and has done so for over 300 years. Fu (wheat gluten) and yuba (soy milk skimmings) historically have been important sources of protein in the Japanese diet, which was largely vegetarian until the 20th century. This 18th-century establishment in a 19th-century house is an excellent place to sample the versatility of both ingredients, which can be grilled, baked, used in tempura, or warmed in soup. How delicious could soy and gluten be? Hmm, somehow don't think hubby will take to this. Still, it's highly recommended in this listing and this forum (scroll to bottom). Oh Discovery lists it here!
Address: Minimazume, Gojo Ohashi Higashi, Higashiyama-ku
Phone: (075) 525 0008 Open: 9am-7pm. Closed Sun. Reservations required!

Ponto-cho 先斗町 has many restaurants in its narrow alleys. Ponto Izakaya is one good place. Succulent sashimi, sizzling beef balls, vegetable dishes, and tofu dishes. Wash it down with beer, sake and other Japanese drinks. A few tables next to windows overlooking the river.



Kappa sushi at Ponto-cho is also popular and reasonably priced (although some claim pricey!).

There are still rumours that some izakayas and restaurants will not serve gaijins, or anyone not recommended by a regular. Gnavi English listing of Ponto-cho eats ought to be safe though.


The closest bus stop to Pontocho is Shijo Kawaramachi, which is served by ten bus lines, including lines 17 and 205 from Kyoto Station. The closest train stations are Kawaramachi Station on the Hankyu Line and Shijo Station on the Keihan Line.

Tenchu
Great tempura near Kyoto University. Affordable lunch sets from ¥1300. Take note: it's a small restaurant with only eight seats! Open from noon to 9pm; closed Mondays and third Tuesdays. English directions here.